Climbing, September 2005
Country: USA Language: English Appears: 12 times a year Website: www.climbing.com
EDITORIAL
LETTERS
HOT FLASHES
HOT SEAT Dani Andrada Ed Viesturs
HAPPENINGS Vail’s Teva Mountain Games New River Rendezvous
OFF THE WALL The pros, cons, and realities of mining impact at Arizaona’s Oak Flats Mystery chopper tags Everest’s summit. UIAA frowns on youth bouldering comps.
PASSAGES Jim Ratz (1953-2005)
The Russian Way Ultralight expeditions may have stolen American alpinists’ hearts , but the Russians are stealing the news. Accused of trashing the mountains, and awarded the Piolet d’Or last year for the first ascent of Jannu’s north face, are the Russians “irrelevant?” by Mark Synnott
The Maelstrom Two climbers, American and Mexican, brought together by chance and then bound by fate in the big- wall battle of their lives. by Tom Andrews
IT COULD HAPPEN TO YOU Epic stories
The Wave The Staircase Black Daze Full Circle Trash and dangle
TECH TIPS: Aid – Copperheading Alpine – The deluxe kitchen on ice Sport – Training at the crags Trad – Dog-eared figure-8-on-a-bight knot
PUZZLEFEST
EQUIPMENT 11 models of approach shoes reviewed by Dave Sheldon
JUST OUT Supper-skinny cords Featherweight axe and crampons Lynn Hill’s climbing camps.
REVIEWS Jennifer Jordan: Savage Summit: The Tryde Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2 Accepteble Risk: The Story of the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers, film by Greg Winston Clean Walls, film by Jeff Lowe
GUIDES & TRAVEL
CLIMBER’S MARKET
ROCK GYMS
SUPPLIERS
VANTAGE POINT Fear and loayhing in the Alaska Range by Jeffrey L. Shackelford
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