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In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
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 Interviews

Daila Ojeda

Interviewed by Tomasz Mazur for the Góry Magazine #180 (May 2009)

Exploring new routes or making first ascents ever is not very popular among women-climbers... You are the exception to the rule. What does it mean for you - making first ascents, exploring new routes? What is the difference between first ascent and repetition?

I have not really made many first ascents...but it is true that many times I have to try new and recently equipped routes and in these cases you have to clean it, to look for the holds, to find the system... people that set routes know about what I am speaking about, the story changes. I have tried some routes that were bolted a short time ago and I thought that I was climbing a completely different route, seriously... It happens overall in schools like Santa Linya or Oliana, where the rock is a little bit soft and at the same time that it gets polished and they go appearing new holds. It is a completely confirmed reality.

What do you think about trips expected by sponsors? Does it disturb your own climbing plans and projects?
I think that this initiative on behalf of Evolv was very interesting. It is important to work in a team. We take care of the brands and the brands take care of us ;-) Promoting the companies that support me in enjoying my passion for climbing is also one of my projects.

What surprised you the most in the last trip through Asia? How do you find the climbing conditions in China etc.? (Did you have any problem with getting visas after the China Crisis? - some totalitarian countries are very "sensitive"... ;))))
The trip to Asia was really interesting... To take the visa in Barcelona I had to fight a little with 300 Chinese who were in the consulate’s door, but in the end I got it!... Hahaha

They proposed us to make a promotional tour of Japan, Korea and China with the company of cats Evolv, and there we went... The last part of the trip was the best thing. In Yangshuo, China, we enjoyed excellent rock quality that they have there, although it seems that the best thing is that it is still to open up. There are a lot of fanatic, strong and motivated climbers...a very good atmosphere ;-) The conditions are not very appropriate to try some new projects or to climb A Muerte... There is a lot of humidity and it is inhumanly hot, ... but well, you get used to it and at the end you can always do something. If there is motivation everything is perfect... well, almost everything ;-)

It was a beautiful experience.

Do Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada have a big influence on your achievements?
That’s for sure. Climbing with climbers of the ability of Dani or Chris is entirely a privilege. They are authentic climbing talents and just by seeing them climb you are learning... Furthermore, they transmit a special energy, they are always motivated and you can easily catch it… so, a muerte, is it?!

On the other hand, I believe that they are climbers who contribute a lot to the difficult routes in the climbing world; they do not just bolt some of the hardest routes in the world. They also equip some of the hardest routes in the world. Thanks to them we always have here in Catalonia new projects... don`t stop to bolt and equip! They are genuine climbing machines! ;-)

Everyday you can see the best climbers in the world. How is it to live in the most important area for sport climbing?
The truth is that here in Catalonia there is a lot of fanaticism. You always find people motivated in the sectors climbers of all levels... and those desires to climb are infectious. Furthermore, there are a lot of difficult lines and of great quality (equipped by the great majority of climbers to the area or that live in the area like Victor, Fernández, Dani, Chris, Kim...) that attracts strong climbers in this discipline to the Catalan schools, and for this reason, you always find motivated people of all parts of the world attempting inhuman routes in Margalef, Siurana, Santa Linya...

At the end, a more personal question, what is your dream place to be asked to be married?
Hahahaha... At the moment I dream of the perfect place to make my first 8c+! That would be really good... I will think of the other thing when I have more time... Hahaha...

 

 

 


Translation from Spanish: Monica Crespo Martin

 
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