Czech and Slovak Expedition Karakoram 2005
Igor Koller, Vladimír Linek and Juraj Poděbradský, together with a cameraman Pavel Pekarčík, climbed on Shipton Spire. In 2004 Igor Koller and Vladimír Linek (with Gabo Čmárik) had climbed 17 pitches of a new line on the E face. Due to bad weather they had finished 100 meters below the col on a side ridge. They wanted to finish the project this year. Gabo Čmárik decided on the FA on Great Trango with Jozef Kopold. Juraj Poděbradský and film maker Pavol Pekarčík joined the team on Shipton. They started climbing on 1st Aug. 2005. They climbed 10 pitches in unsettled weather, using fixed ropes, until they reached a big w-shaped roof (Cassiopeia) where they had left some fixed ropes in 2004.
They returned to the BC on 7th Aug. so that they could help Čmárik and Kopold in case of problems, as the latter two had been lost on Great Trango for several days. After their return, Igor Koller, Vladimír Linek and Juraj Poděbradský started to climb on Shipton again. On 13th Aug. they jumared to the ledge in 2/3 of the wall, where they bivouacked. In the next two days they completed the first ascent of their route and joined the American route Ship of Fools on a small snowy col on the side ridge.
The route had been done, but the climbers wanted to reach the top of Shipton via Ship of Fools. On 16th Aug. the weather deteriorated and because they had no tent or bivouac sacs, they decided to retreat. For the next 3 days the weather was very bad. On 19th Oct. they returned to the col, but this time with a tent. It snowed heavily the following night. In the afternoon on 20th Aug., in bad conditions, they climbed the first two rocky pitches on the ridge. The following day they climbed the next 3 pitches in difficult water ice covered with lots of snow. On 22nd Aug. the four climbers tried to reach the summit, but after Igor Koller's fall, which luckily had a happy ending, they returned to the col. Their progress was slow, and after a rest day just one party - Koller and Linek - decided to climb. They left the col at 3.00 in the morning on 24th Aug. At 5.00 am they were at the end of the fixed ropes. It was clear and cold. For the next 10 hours they were climbing in difficult and dangerous terrain, on the sharp side ridge of Shipton Spire. Igor led. They climbed the first tower, the second tower and then they descended in unstable snow down the sharp ridge to the col below the ice headwall. The following 4 pitches went on solid ice covered with lots of snow, with some mixed parts. At 4.00 pm, close to the summit ridge, they survived a heavy snow storm. It lasted half an hour and then the climbers decided to continue to the top. They reached the summit ridge and climbed one more pitch. At 5.30 pm they decided to retreat, being just around 80 meters below the summit of Shipton. Koller and Linek finished their climb in a place where, according to the American topo, there is "easy terrain to the top". But this time there was a lot of snow on the summit ridge, and some dangerous cornices which would have been very hard to climb. Besides, there was a storm coming. They started descending at 6.00 pm and for the next 8 hours they were rappelling and climbing down a very complicated ridge in strong wind and heavy snowfall. At 2 am, after 23 hours, they returned to the col.
Shipton Spire, 6017 m
Prisoners of the Shipton
8 A3, 900 m, 21 pitches to the col
8- WI 5+, 600 m, 14 pitches of Ship of Fools to the summit ridge
1-7, 13-16, 19-24.08.2005
Igor Koller, Vladimír Linek, Juraj Poděbradský, Pavol Pekarčík (film maker)
Martin Klonfar and Miroslav Turek climbed [on] Ship of Fools in alpine style, after fixing two pitches to the col in 4 days. They were waiting for 2 days on the col in bad weather and on 9th Aug. they retreated. From 14th to 16th Aug. they climbed 15 pitches of Prisoners of the Shipton and due to bad weather they decided to descend.
Sponsors: HK Filozof, Buff, Kayland