|After retreat to base camp, it was raining for 6 days. After that period the team managed to get back on the wall again. They climb up tricky culoir one more time (this time faster- fixed rope) to the previously reached high point. After bivouac, it took them 10,5h to climb to the top.
David: "It was a beautiful climb on solid granite, with some 6c+ pitches. Some of the most interesting parts where wet offwidths done by Eliza, terribly difficult, the last pitch to the peak was 60 meter tower (6c+) with an amazing view... Unfortunately, just after we stood on the summit clouds started pulling over our head and in a little while we couldn't see farther then 100 meters. Later on we continued abseiling and it seems that we were pretty lucky; the rope didn't jam, I had found wedged blocks we'd use to descend, so in the top part we didn't use a single hook nor bolt".
The top part of Golden Lunacy probably (but not necessarily) has common passages with Cecillia Buils' (Spain) and Robera Nunez's (Brasil) route, Hidrofilia. The two ladies were the first to lay foot on the summit in 2003. David and Eliza are the second team to stand on the main peak of Mt. Qaqarssuasia. On the whole wall (more than 1,5 km wide) there are just 4 routes, (including Golden Lunacy). The other two lead till the end of the steep cliff Thumbnail, not reaching the summit.
Style: The route was sent using a few fixed ropes (at the bottom, to traverse to the kayaks). Then the whole route without fixed ropes nor portaledge. Traditional protection with the minimum number of bolts (5 bolts on the entire route; 3 for belay stances (bag hauling), 2 on pitches - 1 for protection while passing a loose boulder, and 1 in smooth rock where traditional protection wasn’t possible.
Difficulties: 7a+ max, one pitch climbed AF (while bolting to detour loose boulder), all other pitches OS. Some pitches climbed free solo. The whole route is on excelent quality granite.
David: „What we found in the fiords, is undoubtedly one of the best granite areas in the world. Unfortunately after sending the route the weather was very bad with storms and constant rain, but we found some unclimbed areas while kayaking. The walls were 700 - 900 meters high. That was one of my most beautiful expeditions. Everyday we were passing icebergs, we met very hospitable Greenlandic people at Appilattoq village and watched the Aurora Borealis. Went berry picking by the handfull and Eliza learned to paddle. We definetely have to return to those couple of walls".
Golden Lunacy is already the second new mulitpitch for Eliza and David. In March they redpointed Subiendo El Arcoiris (RP, 8a, 300 m, in Basaseachic National Park) and opened a new route Arte de Malaria (7b+ 300m, in Huasteca canyons, Nuevo Leon) in the Mexico mountains.
Greenland Expedition, called oficially Hannah Greenland Expedition was supported by:
Hannah, Tendon, Polish Alpinist Association and National Geographic Traveler magazine.