Second free ascent of Arctandria
On 15 July Hansjörg Auer and Markus Haid made the second free ascent of Arctandria 8b, 450m on the north face of Blamann, Kvaloya Island, Norway. They spent four days working the route which can be called one of the hardest trad multi-picth routes in Europe. The final single-push free ascent was done in 9 hours without pre-placing protection (the first free ascent was done in pinkpoint style).
Arctandria was first climbed in May 1981 by Finn Dealhi and Harvard and Sjur Sesheim. They gave it A2+ grade and used copperheads, hooks and knifeblades. Six bolts which are currently on the route were added during subsequent ascents.
The first free ascent of Arctandria was made in 2005 by Didier Bethold and Giovanni Quirici. Both climbers led every pitch free, although the four pitches were only pinkpointed. They proposed the following pitch grades: 7c, 8a+, 7c, 8a, 7b, 7c+, 7b+, 7a+, 6b, 6c, 6b. The crux second pitch was protected only by two copperheads.
Photo courtesy of www.klettern.de