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New Slovenian Route in Cordillera Huayhuash

On 6th of July Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresal climbed a new route Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50o, 600m, 14h roundtrip) on the east face of Puscanturpa Este (5410 m) in Cordillera Huayhuash. Climbing on volcanic rock (lithic tuff) was something really special and sometimes rather scary. This is the first route on the face and (according to Jeremy Frimer's climbing guide of Huayhuash) probably only the second ascent of the top of this hard mountain. This is Kozjek’s eight new route on big walls of Andes. Previous ones include:

Pavle Kozjeks’ ascents in the Peruvian Andes 


1991 New route (V, 60-65o),  N face of Huascarán Sur,  solo

1993 Slovenian Route ED2 (A2+), E face of Chacraraju, first ascent, with Grega Kresal

1995 Oro del Inca ED ½ (1000m, VI-, 85o) N face of Huandoy Sur, first ascent, solo 

1998 Mirton Novice Extreme TD+  (800m, 85/90o, V+),  North East Face of Chopicalqui,  first ascent, solo

2001 No fiesta hoy dia ED+ (M5/6, AI6)  North East Face of Huandoy Sur, 7 hours (5 hours descent), first ascent, solo 

2002 Los Rapidos ED (1000m, 90o [crux] 55o-70o [average]) North East face of Siula Grande, new route, 8 hours (7 hours descent), with Pavle Kozjek

2004 El Senor de las Torres ED+ (800m, 6a A1 AI6 55o), North Face of Chacraraju Oeste, new route, 14 hours, with Marjan Kovac and Aritza Monasterio

 

See short photo story

 
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