Claudio Caffè 8c+ by Angela Eiter
Austrian Angela Eiter, one of the most succesful competition female climbers, redpointed Claudio Cafè 8c+ at Arco. First, on 21 of May she climbed the route Aerodromo with a new method, omitting one artificial hold, replacing a broken, natural one. Originally Aerodromo is an 8b+, but with this method Angela grades it as 8b+/8c or 8c. Claudio Café and Aerodromo were first climbed by Francois Legrand.
- I believed that there is a way to climb that part without using the artificial hold from the climbing gym. I checked out this part by using these small pinches and I could climb this very hard moves. However, I could not imagine climbing this difficult part when I get to that part of the route exhausted after some hard moves. – Said Angela Eiter.
But she did it. Six days later, on the 27 of May, Angela Eiter redpointed Claudio Café 8c/8c+, the variation of Aerodromo, without using the artificial hold. She graded this variation as 8c+ and called it her hardest redpointed route ever.
- I was very motivated to climb that route. After having done the first and hard part of the route, I used the rest of my power and I did the very difficult crux. After that the aim was only to stay cool and keep concentrated for the last hard moves…Finally, released and happy at the same time I clipped the rope on the top!