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Muriel Sarkany
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Lightweight climbing with C.A.M.P.

C.A.M.P lightweight Nanowire carabinerIn climbing, lightness is often linked with performance because the weight/strength ratio can be critical. It is important to make the appropriate gear selection when taking into account the particular climbing activity you are going to engage in.

Sport climbing on routes of high difficulty
When you want to reach the top of a route at your limit, the ability to manipulate a carabiner is essential so that you use all your strength on climbing and not for sorting out protection.
The carabiners that you clip the rope into must be easy to use so that you don’t waste any precious energy when clipping.
In short the weight of the carabiner in high level climbing is not that important (particularly when you consider that often the quick-draws are pre-placed on the route) while the ergonomic (the ease of opening with one hand) is essential.

Climbing on equipped multi-pitch routes
It is the case on multi-pitch routes where the protection is pre-placed that the ability of the climber at his limit (this can be 6a or 8a) is directly linked to the weight of the equipment he is carrying. On long routes there are at least 10 or 12 runners so this means, adding another 2 quick-draws for safety, a total of 12 or 14 quick-draws. So 12 x 65 gms = 780gms if a climber uses C.A.M.P.  Nanowire quick-draws, or 12 x 100 gms = 1200gms if he uses a classic quick-draw. Certainly the smaller size of the Nanowire can make clipping a little bit trickier compared with a normal carabiner, but this small inconvenience is largely compensated by the reduction in weight.

Climbing on unequipped multi-pitch routes
On this kind of route you need to carry your protection with you as well as your quick-draws. The lightness of the Nanowire allows you to add a carabiner to each of your Friends and so saves time and energy during placement. The success of the Nanowire in the U.S. is due to the fact that it is used with Friends. Don’t forget that in any case the weight reduction by using Nanowire quick-draws is appreciable too.
We can thus conclude that unequipped climbing is the activity where the Nanowire is most effective.


See also
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