In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
Adam Ondra on bouldering
David Lama on Maestri Route, climbing ethics
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a

Any special preparations before trying the 8c OS?
In general, when I climb in a new place I always go from the easiest to the most difficult routes. This is how I get to know them. And even after falling off I keep trying until I “conquer” it. I believe that you need to practice ten times on 8a+ before you decide to try the next “level”. Three years ago I on-sighted my first 8b, and only last year I managed to on-sight three 8b+. For the last two years I have made a lot of progress and now I feel that I’m very strong, but still not strong enough for 8c+ OS. This is reeeally difficult…

Have you ever thought about any “trendy” extreme, like Realization or La Rambla for example?
All the “nines” I did took me a lot of time, while for example on Martin Krpan I needed only 2 days. For something more difficult I would need at least ten days. Ramonet had 50 tries on La Rambla. I can’t spend my time like this now, because I have to prepare for competitions. Besides, after two tries I usually loose patience and I leave the route. However, in two or three years, if I keep the form, I will be able to conquer routes like Realization in a few tries.

And what about your plans for the next months?
First I’m going to Baltzola, then to Onati. Afterwards we’re going to participate in Rock Masters in Arco. If I decide to visit some rocks it will only be for my pleasure. I don’t have the same motivation as I had before. The same thing with competitions…I think I’ve already reached the top;-)

For xenia kuciel and maciek oczko

Translation: ClimbAndMore


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See also
World Cup Lead 2006
Arco Rock Legends 2006
Montana 02/06
 News/Last added
Rock Master 2006 - Results
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