Any special preparations before trying the 8c OS?
T: In general, when I climb in a new place I always go from the easiest to the most difficult routes. This is how I get to know them. And even after falling off I keep trying until I “conquer” it. I believe that you need to practice ten times on 8a+ before you decide to try the next “level”. Three years ago I on-sighted my first 8b, and only last year I managed to on-sight three 8b+. For the last two years I have made a lot of progress and now I feel that I’m very strong, but still not strong enough for 8c+ OS. This is reeeally difficult…
Have you ever thought about any “trendy” extreme, like Realization or La Rambla for example?
T: All the “nines” I did took me a lot of time, while for example on Martin Krpan I needed only 2 days. For something more difficult I would need at least ten days. Ramonet had 50 tries on La Rambla. I can’t spend my time like this now, because I have to prepare for competitions. Besides, after two tries I usually loose patience and I leave the route. However, in two or three years, if I keep the form, I will be able to conquer routes like Realization in a few tries.
And what about your plans for the next months?
T: First I’m going to Baltzola, then to Onati. Afterwards we’re going to participate in Rock Masters in Arco. If I decide to visit some rocks it will only be for my pleasure. I don’t have the same motivation as I had before. The same thing with competitions…I think I’ve already reached the top;-)
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