Do you continue with training like this?
T: Not any more. It looked like this for three years. I could climb every day without any rest for months. Now I’m taking it more “rationally”. All changed when Helenka got her degree at the Academy of Physical Education and started working as my trainer. Now we train together, and we go to all competitions together. I have always had problems with finding someone to join me because all my friends either had to work and didn’t have time or had time but didn’t have money. For me the situation is different, I have the best sponsors I could ever find (RockPillars, Ocun).
So how do you train now?
H: We wake up early in the morning and after breakfast we train for 2 hours and a half. Afterwards there is some rest and in the afternoon another 2 and a half hours on the climbing wall. It looks like this for two days and then there is one day off. Actually, during those two days we don’t have time for anything else, so only on a rest day there is some time e.g. for a massage or meetings with friends.
T: Mostly we boulder. There are no conditions for roped climbing in Brno. But every time before a competition we go for some days to Austria to “warm up” a bit. Still I believe that bouldering is the best way of training. However, I change the system of training every year; I’m always concentrated on my weaknesses – I’m conscious that I have to keep improving my technique and real rock is the best for it.
And what do you consider your strong point?
T: My biggest talent is the fact that I like training…;-)
Pata Negra. Your first 8c OS and an obvious on sight. Hirayama’s ascent was quite controversial.
T: The Japanese were working on it for a month, so all the holds and footholds were marked. When I got there I hadn’t seen anyone there nor had I known anything about it. Never before had I tried to on-sight an 8c.
Was it good for on sight?
T: I didn’t have problems, maybe except the last part. I must admit that the last boulder was quite difficult (a note by M. Oczko: as it turned out afterwards, Tomek used the last boulder footholds as holds). There are few 8c you can try on sight because in general there are not many 8c around.