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In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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You have also climbed multi-pitch routes in Paklenica. Last summer you did Brid Kilna on AniŠa Kuk. Before Tomo ╚esen bolted this route, it had been a psychologically demanding climb. What is your opinion of bolting such routes? You know – on the one hand, now it can be repeated by many more climbers, and AniŠa is generally a sport climbing wall; on the other hand, it was really a demanding route before, regardless of not such a high grade. Don’t you think that some of such routes should be left in the state they are?
You are right. There has also been such a discussion about Devilish Robert. I think some routes should stay like they are. They have greater value. I am sure I wouldn't go to Brid Klina if there weren't any bolts. But Brid Klina is a special route, the most prominent line of AniŠa Kuk, like the Nose on El Cap and I think it was a right thing to bolt it, make it safe to climb and therefore attract more climbers. And even bolted, the route is very adventurous.

And what about style of climbing long routes? You came back to Brid Klina to lead all the pitches by yourself. Do you think it’s essential that on such climbs one climber should lead all the pitches to make the ascent really valuable?
I did it for myself. I like things to be perfect. But if there are two motivated climbers together it's not possible to do this, so you swap the lead. 

The line of Brid Klina looks really impressive. Is this route as beautiful as it looks?
Yes, all the pitches are really nice, exposed, with a lot of air beneath. And there are lots of cracks. Besides, you shouldn't underestimate the easy pitches (6a, 6b). Grading in Paklenica is very severe!


Paklenica is a really popular place among Polish climbers. Which routes would you recommend to them? Which ones have impressed you the most?
Besides Brid Klina I have nice memories (apart from heavy wind and cold) from Infinito 7a and Kaurismakis Mistake 7a. And of course classic routes like Klin, Rajna, ęubara…

 

To be continued…

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See also
 Climbandmore special
Petzl Roc Trip Kalymnos
Petzl Roc Trips
Martina ╚ufar: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
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Martina ╚ufar
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Famous Climbers' Portraits
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Martina ╚ufar about Vizija 8c
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Gˇry 06/06
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Rock Master 2006 - Results
Ociepka sends 8c
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