climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
Adam Ondra on bouldering
David Lama on Maestri Route, climbing ethics and...fishing
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a
 Interviews

The conditions you found on the route were quite different from those described by Lowe in his article "No Ase Gana, Pero Se Goza"? Could you say something about the differences? 

There was much less ice in the wall now, so we had to deal with rock, and even some meters of aid climbing at the beginning. But the short one-pitch rock variant in the steepest part of the wall was (although overhanging) probably even less difficult than the original icefall, which would have been too dangerous in such "dry" conditions. Conditions in the Andes are changing in general, and it looks as if some mixed routes will become completely rock climbing within some decades.

Jeff Lowe was a legendary climber and he estimated the seriousness of his route to be very high. How would you compare the difficulties of the route to other ascents you'd made in the Andes before (e.g. Los Rapidos on the northeast face of Siula Grande?)
All my new routes there were serious, and comparing to some of them I felt rather safe in Trapecio; the mountain is steep, but not as wild and remote as e.g. Siula; the access to Trapecio is easy and objective dangers were not as high as for instance on Chacraraju last year. I found my last year's Chacra route also technically difficult; it's a pity we had to finish it on the ridge, and there were no more difficulties to the top. Los Rapidos is not so hard technically, but there counts the style, the wilderness, the direct line with the exit via the top etc.. 

Lowe Route was done in a rapid lightweight style. Could you say something about the tactics you used? On Los Rapidos in 2002 you climbed most of the route unroped: you belayed only on the key 150-meter section. How it was on Trapecio? 
On Trapecio we belayed on almost all the route, mostly as two rope parties. I was leading all the time, and for the hardest sections we left the top rope for the second party, to be faster. The character of climbing was different: Trapecio is steeper, rockier... And some members of the team were not so familiar with climbing unroped. It took some more time, but it was OK; we had enough time to find our descent line on the west face before dark.


Which of your climbs in Peru would you call the most memorable and which one was the most serious? 
Hm, hard to say... I'm sure I will never forget the last belay on the last year Chacraraju route: it was a windy night, it was cold and there was only powder snow on the ridge, so nothing really to fix the rope to. My friends (Marjan and Aritza) had only one headlamp, they followed the hard pitch close together on the rope, and they took a simultaneous fall... I wouldn't like to experience anything like that again. Another piece of hard stuff was soloing "No fiesta hoy dia" on the NE face of Huandoy Sur, an ED+ combination of rock and ice, with another TD route (Astier) for descent after that, on the same day.

I guess you're already thinking about coming back to Peru. Can you reveal any of your future plans in the Peruvian Andes? 
With every visit I see more routes to climb, so I can't tell what exactly will be next... There are some totally unclimbed big walls in the Blanca, some new challenges in the Huayhuash... I will probably decide just before next summer. 

1 2  
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2018 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik