Steve House (b. 1970, USA)
The simpler we make things, the richer experience.
It’s not about ‘summit or plummet’. It is about belief in one’s skill, and calling upon one’s experience as a resource. Plus, it keeps me from being exposed for too long to the hazards of the mountains.
Steve House about light-and-fast FA’s
Kunyang Chhish East, South-West Face, attempt, retreated 300m below the summit, with Vince Anderson
Italian Route, Taulliraju (5830m), first free ascent, three-day roundtrip, with Marko Prezelj
Cayesh (5719m), West Face, Peru, on-sight first ascent, 5.10, M7, 16 pitches, with Marko Prezelj
It was more fun than oughta be legal.
The Anderson-House M5 X, 5.9.WI4, Central Pillar of the Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat, 8125m, with Vince Anderson
Lowe-Jones 5.9 A3, North Twin, Canadian Rockies, second ascent of the 1974 route with some variations, with Marko Prezelj
Kapura Peak 6544m, the route at 5.8, M5, 90°, 1100 m, the CharakusaValley, Pakistan, first ascent, with Doug Chabot, Marko Prezelj, Bruce Miller and Steve Swenson.
K7 (6942m) Southwest Face, CharakusaValley, new route at 5.10, A2,80° ice, M6+, 2650 m, at 6300m it joins the Japanese Route, solo in 41 hours roundtrip from BC.
Nanga Parbat (8125m), attempt of the new route at Rupal Face, after 4 days of climbing they turned back from a height of over 7500m
The Talkeetna Standard AI5 5.91100m , Eye Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska with Jeff Hollenbaugh, 1st ascent
East Face 5.9, Al, 5000', Mount Dickey, Ruth Gorge Alaska., repeating the route climbed by Rowell, Ward and Roberts in 1974
Hajji Brakk (5985m), new route 5.9 65° 1200m, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan, solo, first ascent of the peak, roundtrip in 19 hours.
Nuptse, a new route up the South-Southwest Pillar, in alpine style to 7200m, where the 1961 Bonington Route was joined, with Marko Prezelj and Barry Blanchard
The Infinite Spur 5.9 WI4, Alaskan Grade VI, South Face, Mount Foraker, 5th ascent, 25 ½
hours to the summit, 20 hours down, with Rolando Garibotti.
Sometimes the descent is the crux.
Sans Blitz V 5.5 WI7 800m, Mount Fay, new route, 34 hours roundtrip, with Rolando Garibotti, Barry Blanchard
The purest of lines, and the competition for the FA made it more interesting.