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Aguja Mermoz 2732m, east face

Area: Southern Patagonia, Argentina


1. Jegliè-Karo-Knez, 5, 95°, 400m, Janez Jegliè, Silvo Karo, Francek Knez, 9 December 1983, only to the ridge 

2. Padre Viento, IV, M6, WI5+, 400m, Topher Donahue, Jared Odgen, 2 December 2001, only to the ridge [AAJ 2002, p. 320]

3. Vol de Nuit, ED, 90° A2, 600m, Andy Parkin, solo, 21 February 1993, without summit. The Briton started up an icy ramp to the right of the Slovene route which slants up to the left to gain a snowfield at three-quarters height. There was much 80° to 85 °ice and some 90° ice before he gained the snowfield. From the right corner of snowfield, he took a steep couloir to the summit ridge [AAJ 1993, High no. 129]  The route was repeated by Andy Kirkpatrick and Ian Parnell in winter, during the August 2002, with one bivouac [AAJ 2003, p. 324]

4. Ferrari-Ceballos, ED, 5+ A3, 550m, Casmiro Ferrari, Martin Ceballos, 4-6 January 1994, 14 pitches [High No 142, p. 41]

5. Vela y Viento, 7b (5.12c), 550m, Kurt Albert, Berndt Arnold, 9 January 1999, 19 pitches, attempted by several parties in alpine style, it was nearly completed by Americans Kennan Harvey and Topher Donnahue in 1994. In 1999 it was bolted (belay anchors every 30 meters and an average of three bolts per pitch) and almost free climbed (A0) by Bernd Arnold and  Kurt Albert. It was repeated by Charlie Fowler and Nathan Martin a month later with a new variant [AAJ 1999, p. 74-79]

 
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