Golazo Finally Repeated
Russian-Ukrainian team of Siergey Kovalev, Siergiej Tretiakov (both UKR), Timur Achmedhanov, Arkadij Seregin (leader) and Igor Pechterev (all RUS) has made the second ascent of Golazo (5.10 A4+, 1200 m, 25 pitches), the 1999 Steve Schneider’s route on the east face of Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
The team started working on the route on January 14. During all that time they were facing strong wind. They were using just short windows of good weather, climbing in capsule style (after fixing about 400m). They reached the top on midnight of February 2. At 6 a.m. they got safely back to the bivy after rappeling in constant snowfall.
All of the members admit that from technical point of view this was the most difficult climbing in their lives and probably the most difficult line on the great towers of Paine.
History of the first ascent
Schneider began new line with Christain Sentileces in February 1999. Over four weeks they managed to fix nine pitches. Then, on February 22, they started capsule style ascent, pulling their ropes behind them. On the morning of the eighth day, after having climbed only three and a half more pitches because of terrible weather, Sentileces decided he had enough and rapelled back down. Schneider continued for the next 11 days, eventually summiting on March 12. He christened the route Golazo after his favourite chocolate bar in Chile (it is also South American cheer of good sportmanship). On the 25 pitches no rivets were placed. Most anchors were equipped with two bolts.