In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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Mick Fowler, b. 1956, Great Britain
Dean Potter, b. 1972, USA
Steph Davis, b. 1973, USA
Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany

I’ve always thought that the most insecure climbs are the most attractive. If I know I can do something, it’s not so interesting.

Jeff Lowe, b. 1950



South Face, Ama Dablam, first ascent, solo

South Ridge, Ama Dablam, second ascent, with Martin Boysen, David Breashears, Lhapka Dorje, Tom Frost, George Lowe, Peter Pilafian and Jonathan Wright

Black Elk V 5.11a, Warbonnet, southeast face, Wind River Range, first ascent, with Charlie Fowler, one of the best free climbs in the region

Feather Buttress IV 5.10+, Warbonnet Peak (Wind River Range), first ascent, with Charlie Fowler, the crux was 40-foot, unprotected 

Northeast Coloir Gully, Grand Teton, new route, with Charlie Fowler, at the time the hardest ice route in the Tetons



North Ridge, Latok I (7144m), attempt to 6995 m, with George Lowe, Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy

Bridalveil Falls III WI6, Colorado, first solo ascent


Grand Central Coloir, Mount Kitchener, north face, new route, with Michael Weis


Bridalveil Falls III WI6, Colorado, with Mike Weis – the ascent transformed ice climbing: before vertical ice was something to be avoided, not sought

Isaac V 5.9, Court of the Partiarchs, south face, Zion, new route, with George Lowe

West Buttress V 5.9, Squaretop, Wind River Range, first ascent, with George Lowe and Kent Christensen


North Face III 5.7, Wetterhorn Peak, Colorado, first ascent, with Paul Hogan

East Face V 5.9, Keeler Needle, Sierra Nevada, new route, with John Weiland

North Face to the West Summit, Andromeda, Rockies, new solo route  

Watchman IV 5.9 A1, West Face, Zion, new route, with Mike Weis



West Face IV 5.8, Grand Teton, first winter ascent, with George Lowe

West Face IV 5.8, Grand Teton, new variantion in solo climb

North Face V, 5.9, Mt. Slesse,  North Cascades, with Rob Keisel



Moonlight Buttress V 5.9, A3, Zion, with Mike Weis

Haystack V 5.10 A3, North Tower, Wind River Range, with Jeff Heath


North Ridge IV 5.7 90o, Mt. Temple, Rockies, first ascent, with George Lowe

North Face V 5.9 A3, Warrior I, Wind River Range, Wyoming, first ascent, with George Lowe

Angel’s Landing V, 5.9, A3, North Face, Zion, with Cactus Bryan


Salathé Wall, El Capitan, seventh ascent, with George Lowe



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