I’ve always thought that the most insecure climbs are the most attractive. If I know I can do something, it’s not so interesting.
Jeff Lowe, b. 1950
Metanoia VII 5.10 A5, 60 pitches, Eiger North Face, new route in winter, nine days on the final push, no bolts
I always thought I’d save the Alps for old age, and now I’m old.
Yugoslavian Route VI 5.12a, Trango Nameless Tower, second free ascent, with Catherine Destivelle
North Face VII WI6 A3 5.11, Tawoche, Nepal Himalaya, first ascent in winter, with John Roskelley
Kantenga (6779m) new route on the right side of the northwest ridge, alpine style in ten-day round trip, with Alison Hargreaves, Mark Twight, Tom Frost
Nuptse, southeast buttress, attempt with Mark Twight, reached 6700 after single eight-day push, very technical climbing (5.10 A4). Stopped by bad weather.
The route is one of the finest I have been on and has just the combination of features I am looking for: steep, technical mixed ground, and altitude.
Jeff Lowe, "American Alpine Journal", 1987
East Face V 5.11, 13 pitches, Squaretop, Wind River Range, new route, with Renato Casarotto
French Pillar, Pumori (7161m), Nepal Himalaya, second ascent, solo in winter
South West Pillar VI, M6, AI5, Taulliraju, Peru, first alpine-style ascent, with Alex Lowe
North Pillar VI 5.10b, Putscanturpa Norte, Peru, second ascent, first free ascent, solo
North Face, Kwangde (6194m), first ascent in winter, with David Breashears
We were convinced that we had completed what would become a hard modern classic climb.
Jeff Lowe, "American Alpine Journal", 1983
Asteroid Alley IV, M5, 5.9, Mt. Andromeda, Canadian Rockies, solo