I’ve always thought that the most insecure climbs are the most attractive. If I know I can do something, it’s not so interesting.
Jeff Lowe, b. 1950
Bats in the Belfry V 5.10 A3, Catherdral Arch, Arch Canyon, new route, with Teri Ebel
Deep Throat III, M8, WI6+, Glenwood Canyon, first ascent, with Will Gadd
Book Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing published
Gorrillas in the Mist III, M6+, WI5, Poke-o-Moonshine, Adirondacks, first ascent
Video Waterfall Ice: Jeff’s Lowe Climbing Techniques released
Octopusy M8, 20m, Vail Area
With its pre-placed protection, redpointing tactics, and exotic moves, Octopussy signaled a radical departure in mixed climbing. Technically it was by far the hardest mixed climb yet made.
Raphael Slawinski, "AAJ", 2002
When I saw those photographs of Jeff on Octopussy a whole new world opened up for me.
Will Gadd, “Climbing”, 2002
Seventh Tenacle M7+, Vail Area
Super Couloir Direct V, M6, WI4, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, probably first completely first free ascent, solo in 2 hours (probably fastest time)
Blind Faith WI6+ A2, Tete du Gramusat, new route, with Thierry Renault
Wind, Sand and Stars V 5.12c, 11 pitches, Zion, first free ascent, with Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade, the route was done a year earlier by Lowe and Catherine Destivelle, one of the very finest long climbs in North America
The route is really the best free climb that I’ve ever been involved in.
Jeff Lowe, “Rock and Ice”, 1992