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Fitz Roy 3405m,
south and southeast faces,
east and northeast faces 

Area: Southern Patagonia, Argentina


7. East Pillar Route, 5.9 A3, 1200m, 45 pitches, Casmiro Ferrari, Vittorio Meles, summit on 23 February 1976. In 1974 Swiss party reached a point 200m below the summit. In 1976 10-member Italian team sieged the Swiss line and legendary Ferari and his partner made it to the summit in a typical Patagonian storm [AAJ 177, p. 230-231]

8. Royal Flush, 7b A1, 950m, Kurt Albert, Berndt Arnold, Jörg Gerschel, Lutz Richtel, January-February 1995, 13 days of preparation, without summit because oh the broken leg. Repeated in  February 1998 to the summit by Guner Gäbel, Michael Schafroth and Rainer Treppte. They made a three-day round day to the summit. One of the finest free routes in Patagonia. [notes: High 203, p. 96; AAJ 1996, p. 236]

9. El Crazón, 5.11 A4, 1200m, Kaspar Oschner, Michal Pitelka, Summit on 20 February 1992, the route was climbed in 8 days during 2 months. Out of the 40 pitches of superb cracks and corners, only nine required aid and eight of these were straightforward A1. The crux pitch through a rock scar called the Heart required bathooking. Each stance was equipped with wto bolts and carabiner, but only eight pegs were left on the whole route.

10. Linea di Eleganza, VI, 5.11b A3, 90˚, M7, 1250m, Horacio Codò, Lucas Fava, Elio Orlandi, January-February 2004, FFA (5.12+, M8): Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue, 22-24 February 2006

11. Devil’s Dihedral [Siedro del Diablo], 5.10 A2, 60˚, Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo, Franček Kne¾, summit on 8 December 1983. Hard and dangerous climb up the prominent corner formed by the left side of the Goretta Pillar.
 
12. Casarotto Route (Goretta Pillar), 5.10 A1, 60˚, Renato Casarotto, solo, summit on 19 January 1979. One of the greatest achievements of the great Italian master of soloing. The first solo ascent of the mountain. Casarotto spent 8 days of climbing over period of 43 days [note: High 176]

12a. Diedro Directo, 5.10 A3, 60˚, 32 pitches, Ben Gilmore, Brady Robinson, 2000, variation to Casarotto Route, 12 new pitches before joining the old Casarotto line  [note: AAJ 2000, p 282]

12b. Kearney-Knight variation 5.11 A0, 60˚, Alan Kearney, Robert Knight, December 1984, important variation leading mainly to the right of the Casarotto line in the lower section and joining the original line about 8 pitches below the pillar top. The Americans climbed almost entire route free (exept 2 pitches) over 4 days. Above the Goretta Polar they climbed together with the Polish party, reaching the top after making the first ascent of the North West Diedro (aka. Polish Route) [article: Climbing 1985, p. 36-43]

Unseen on the topo is the Chimichurri y Tortas Fitas  variation on the upper part of the Casarotto Route 5.11, 60˚, 450m of new ground, Kurt Locher, Marco Pedrini, 29 December 1985, the climbers didn’t summited. Only in 1993 the variation was completed to the summit by Athol Whimp and Andrew Lindblade.

 

Topo: Jakub Radziejowski 

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