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New route on Cho Oyu,
solo in a single push

 

Kozjek started from ABC at 3:30 in the morning and reached the Polish ridge before 10:00. His equipment was extremely light: 3 thermo bottles of drink, 6 power gels, spare gloves, bivouac sac and a camera. On the ridge his progress was slower due to poor conditions (deep snow).He reached the top at 18:00, then he descended  the normal route to C2 (7000 m), spent some hours in his bivouac sac in one of abandoned tents, and returned to the base camp before 12:00 the next day.

According to the available data, this is the first single push (one day) ascent of a new route from BC to the top of a Himalayan 8000m peak.

 

 
During the last years, the main activity of Pavle Kozjek was concentrated on the Andes, where he opened a number of hard new routes ( e.g. Chacraraju, Huascaran, Huandoy, Siula Grande, Chopicalqui), all in a similar fast and light style. In the Himalayas, together with Andrej Stremfelj, he opened a new alpine style route on the South Face of Shisha Pangma (1989) and he was the first Slovenian climber to reach Mount Everest without oxygen (1997).

 

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All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2007 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited