New routes and a virgin peak
above the Trango Glacier
We finished our climb at the first Tower of the Ridge (after climbing 670 meters), without scrambling up some easy ground to the very top of the First Tower. Our variation solves at least 200 meters of new ground, including a 7a+ pitch (climbed All Free) and a 7a grade pitch (climbed onsight). The next three pitches, before the route joins Severence Ridge, offer difficulties between 6b+ and 6c and a short section of aid climbing – C1 (no pitons were used in this terrain).
After the variation joins the ridge, the difficulties are around 6a, with a single A0 point. The variation was called Let's go home, and it shows our determination to leave BC pretty well. For all three of us the route is one of the most demanding rock climbs we have ever done. The quality of rock is the best of all 3 new routes we climbed and it is not far from the quality of the Trango Nameless rock. Protection is good, but of course you can still find some vegetation inside the cracks.