New routes and a virgin peak
above the Trango Glacier
On 13th September, Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski attempted to climb Trango Nameless Tower via the Eternal Flame route. After 19 pitches, we set up a bivy on the Snow Ledge. Unfortunately, on the next day the weather deteriorated and we decided to abseil.
After another spell of unclimbable weather, we got a weather forecast that gave us a chance to climb during the last 3 days of our stay in BC.
On 17th of September, all three of us (Ciesielski, Radziejowski and Zakrzewski) opened a new route that solves the south-west face of Sadu Peak. The route Pretty close (6b+, OS) is the third route on the wall after Sadu, and Love, Love (2004) and has the same grade as the other two. The route is about 430 meters long, the rock is good and some of the pitches are really nice.
A day later, as a farewell to the Karakoram, we climbed a new variation to the Severence Ridge - a route opened last year by a New Zealand-Canadian-American team. Our variation may be a separate aim for a climb on the First Tower of Severence Ridge – (the whole Ridge leads over at least four independent middle peaks/towers, almost to the Trango Ri summit).