One of the most impressive alpine valleys, deep between Mt Mangart and the broad north face of Loška Stena, the Koritnica Valley accommodates some of the finest ice climbing gems in Slovenia.
Psihoanaliza (120m, WI 6), Psihoterapija (120m, WI 6+), Zeleni slapovi (300m, WI 5-6) and Tisa (150m, WI 5-6) are written high on the wish list of local ice climbers. Steep and long climbs at the foot of Loška Stena are a very attractive challenge. For specialists, there is the Membrana, a grade 7 icefall, which forms rarely and has only been climbed once.
Big wall climbers should appreciate a vast range of possibilities on Loška Stena, a 1100-metre wall of snow, ice and rock, offering a serious alpine undertaking for any climbing team.
The Koritnica Valley is best accessible over the Predel Pass, about 30 kilometres west of Kranjska Gora (via Italy). There are also some interesting valleys on the Italian side of the Julian Alps (Riofreddo, Dogna, Zajzera) which also offer several icefalls and are dominated by Slovenian climbers. These too are easily accessible in a one-day excursion from either Bovec or Kranjska Gora.
A village some 5 kilometres east of Kranjska Gora is the birthplace of Slovenian ice climbing. Lucifer is a favourite dish for any visitor of these places - it is both the highest (180m) and the most prominent icefall in the area. And a real classic! Just a little further east is the valley of Beli Potok, where another bunch of shorter, but also a bit harder icefalls are to be found (Stiriofobija, WI 5-6, 100m).
Since the year 2000, there has been a man-made icefall poured over a rocky cliff in the Mlačca Gorge, situated just outside the village of Mojstrana. The shadowy and cold gorge offers sport ice and mixed climbs up to 30 metres high and is run by local enthusiasts. This is a true ice climbing crag with a lot of climbing possibilities - training, school, courses, competitions, etc…, or simply for hanging out with friends, instead of hanging around in a bar. A contribution of about 5 Euro is expected, and given the hard work carried out by the local climbers, they deserve it. Night climbing is possible with powerful spotlights installed.
Close to Mojstrana, there is another famous icefall. If it freezes late in December or early in January, Peričnik (130m, WI 5-6), on the road to the Vrata Valley, offers a great and extremely scenic climbing experience. It is safely climbable on the left hand side of the main stream, where a curtain forms. But the season is always short. The sun starts melting the icicles and strong water current makes sure that by the end of January the perhaps most beautiful icefall in Slovenia in no longer climbable.
We could continue indefinitely, but of course, we cannot give a complete overview of Slovenian ice climbing attractions. There are many other climbing spots - we must mention at least the Logarska Valley and Jezersko. Together with numerous fine alpine ice climbs, they offer great a winter experience. Welcome!