Better Bouldering: Master's Advice
WORK YOUR WEAKNESSES
A lot of people don’t like to train what ther’re not good at. Ovet the years I’ve addressed a lot of weaknesses. I udes to think ot was slopers, then it was pockets, then steep problems. I get out there and suck it up, even though it means dropping to a lower level, because I want to learn the technique and build the muscles I need to get up the problems I’m most inetersted in. I still have a lot of weaknesses, and I’m working in them.
I started climbing with the old-school generation and they climbed very well technically.For example, Francois Lombard. He uses minimum energy in all movement. You must practise the different dop-knee and heel-hooks and other techniques on easy problems. Sure, you can climb them without using so much technique, but if you learn technique on the easy problems, them later you can do hard boulders very quickly.
THE MORE PROBLEMS, THE BETTER
I think, for bouldering particularly, the more time one spends on a veriety of difficult rock problems, the better. […] Training on simulated climbing moves or special apparatus can become an end in itself – much like kata is to a martial artist.
YOU CAN BOULDER EVERYDAY
You can only do three intense training sessions but you can boulder every day if you vary the intensity. For example, I have an easy mileage day on the grit after a hard day at school or Cressbrook and it helps me to recover and keeps my technique sharp.
TAKING A BREAK
If I’m only climbing, I burn out. There’s nothing wrong with taking break.