I think eating the right food is more impor¬tant then dieting. But I do try to cut down food intake and lose a couple of pounds before a hard ascent. The day before I did Dominator, [a testpiece boulder problem in Yosemite Valley] I went for a four-hour hike and had salad for tea, then I had a cup of cof¬fee for breakfast. I was starving, but I felt light and strong.
Make sure you write down your training in diary, especially when you start. You’ll be able to look back and see your improvement over time. This can be a real boost if your motivation dwindles.
Climb on as many different rock types as possible and as many different angles. This is so your body never knows what’s coming up. This shocks the muscles, they can only respond by getting stronger. This shocking of the muscles is very important.
Be careful what you think
The more you think, write and talk about something happening, the greater the chances of that thing becoming a reality. So be careful what you think, don’t slag yourself or think “I’m shit, I’ll never do it”. Stay positive and focus. The rewards are worth it.
I would say this: Enjoy it. If you’re not having fun with your training, then something is wrong and you’ll never see the winter through.
Jerry Moffatt, Speak English, “Climbing” 1996, No. 163
Marius Morsted, Traning – some basic principles, “On The Edge”, No. 92
Marius Morsted, Training: strength – part 1, “On The Edge”, No. 93
Marius Morsted, Training: endurance – part 2
Marius Morsted, Training: technique – part2, “On The Edge”, No. 100