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 New Route on the North Face of San Lorenzo

On 28 March four Italian climbers, Hervé Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi and Giovanni Ongaro, climbed a new route on the north face of 3706-meter San Lorenzo, Patagonia's second-highest peak. Climbers had planned to climb impressive North East Face of the mountain, but because of very bad weather conditions they changed the plans and climbed an obvious gully on the North Face, reaching the summit in just seven hours. At 11 PM they came back to the safety of snow cave. The four climbers were members of the UP Trip to Patagonia project - a series of sponsored expeditions led by Luca Maspes. Recently the "UP" climbers also made an attempt to climb the North West Face of Cerro Piergiorgio, but that expedition finished without success on 22 of February 2006.

Below we present a short summary of climbing history of San Lorenzo:

For the first time San Lorenzo was ascended in 1943 by famous Italian explorer and climber Alberto de Agostini (aka. "Padre Patagonia", 1883-1960). He stood on the top of the second highest peak of Patagonia, accompanied by two Argentinian guides. The three climbed the mountain from the west, Chilean side. The first ascent from the Argentinian side was made in 1986 by South African team, Erwin Müller, Russel Dodding, Hans-Peter Baker and L. Paul Fatti. The ascent was made in alpine style via the 2200-meter high east-ridge and involved steep ice climbing with a 5-meter vertical rock band just below the summit. Next year American team consisting of John Hauf, Timothy Rawson and Tom Walter, attempted new line on the North Face. They managed to establish new route, but after reaching summit ridge were forced to stop continuing to the top, because of deteriorating weather. In July 2004 Chilean climbers, Pablo Besser, Camilo Rada, and Manuel Bugueno made the first winter ascent of San Lorenzo by the Agostini Route.

 
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All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2018 Piotr Dro┐d┐ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M│odecka, Janusz Szymik