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Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965-2006)

 

Jean-Christophe Lafaille, one of the best French mountaineers, is now believed to have died high on the slopes of Makalu. He was trying to make the first winter ascent of the peak true solo. Lafaille last phoned his wife Katia on January 26th. He was at a camp at around 7,600 meters and was planning to head for the summit the next day.


Lafaille has been at the front of the French climbing scene since the 1980s, when he free climbed the hardest routes in Ceuse and took part in competitions. At the beginning of the 1990s he moved on to the Alps and then to the Himalayas. We decided to commemorate the tragic end of his outstanding career with a few quotes and a list of his best ascents. We believe they will say more about him than our words.

Jean-Christophe Lafaille’s quotes

I like to be professional with my sponsors, with the media world and with my guests when I’m a mountain guide but the amateur spirit is still my driving force.

*

I think I could stop Himalayan climbing but never rock climbing.

*

My family doesn’t change my mountaineering style with bold routes but for sure the timing of my life. I spend less time in the mountains but it is very good experience trying to be the best father I can be. I’m very proud to have a great family and to continue to climb hard.

*


I respect the story of the face of the mountain, it’s important to be aware of your predecessors and respect their ways.


*


My ethics have been influenced by the ascents and books of Pierre Beghin and Messner. They remain the masters for the new Himalayan generation: small expeditions, no oxygen, not much equipment, only the possibilities of man in front of the biggest mountains: I like this concept and ethic.

*


The most important thing is the mental aspect; all hard routes require hard concentration, motivation, and they therefore develop the ‘spirit’. I like the mountain ‘spirit’.

 

List of best ascents:


1989

 

1990

 

1991

 


 
1992

Le Chemin des Etioles ED3, 1000m, Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Croz), new route in winter, half the pitches involved aid and on these there were several sections of A3.

Weekend in Transilvania 6b, 200m, Trident du Tacul, southeast face, winter solo in 3 hours 

Directe des Capucins ED2, 6c, 450 m, Grand Capucin, first solo winter ascent [High 122]

Annapurna South Face, attempt, new line between the 1970 British route and the 1981 Japanese route, reached c7500m, with Pierre Beghin, which was killed when an anchor pulled during the retreat, extremely difficult descent alone  


I thought about Doug Scott and Joe Simpson and figured those guys gave all they had, and then gave even more… I should at least do the same

 

1993

Cho-Oyu 8201 m, Normal Route,  Jean-Christophe’s first 8,000er

1994

Zenyatta Mondatta (El Capitan, Yosemite), first French ascent

Shisha Pangma Expedition
- on October 7 climbed Normal Route to the Central Summit
- on October 9 climbed new route on the the right side of the north face joining the 1987 Polish Route (Kukuczka – Hazjer), ascended the Western Summit (7950)
Awarded once again with the Cristal d’Or by the F.F.M.E for the most significant ascent of the year.

1995


SOLO ENCHAINMENT OF TEN ALPINE CLASICS IN 16 DAYS

Lafaille linked 10 classic alpine faces, climbing solo and moving between each on ski or foot (20 000meters of elevation gain and 180km of ski travel, using no helicopters or automobiles for transport). Received the Super Borne I.G.N. de l’Aventure award for this enterprise.

Chronology of Lafaille’s odyssey:

April 4: Lauper Route TD+, 1500 m, Northeast Face of the Eiger, 6 hours 30 min + North Face TD mixed, 750m, Mönch, 3 hours 30 min
April 5: travel
April 6: New Route, North Face of Aletschorn, 2 hours 15 min
April 7: Slovene Route TD/TD+, 900m, north face of Nesthorn, new finish added, 4 hours
April 8-9: travel between Blatten Saas Blatten and Zamboni Hutte
April 10: Marineli Couloir D+, 45-55o, 2300m, east face of Monte Rosa, 5 hours 30 minutes
April 11: asend to Hornli Hut at the base of North Face of the Matterhorn
April 12: Schmid Route EDI, 1000m, North Face of Matterhorn, 17 hours
April 13: Rest at Hornli Hut
April 14: New Route, 1000m, north face of Breithorn, 2 hours 45 minutes
April 15: approach to foot of north face of Dent d’Herens but seracs are too menacing, head for La Cabane des Dix
April 16: North Face TD-/TD, 650m, north face of Mont Blanc de Cheillon,
April 17: travel
April 18: North Couloir AD+, 800m, north face of Col de l’Aiguille Verte, 2 hours 30 minutes
April 19: The Shroud TD+, 750m, north face of Grandes Jorasses, 2 hours


Annapurna I, Bonington Route, attempt to make the first truly solo of the mountain, reached 7600m


1996

Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II Echchainment, ascents of both peaks were made in one continuous push, without descending to the Base Camp, on July 28 he soloed Gasherbrum II by the standard route in the very short time of 11 hours 20 minutes. After the rest in his tent at 5900m on July 31, he climbed Gasherbrum II. Ascents were made totally alpine style with no help from anyone else.

 

6250m peak, first ascent solo of an unclimbed peak which he called "Mari Ri" after his daughter Marie


1997

Lhotse, Western Summit, ascent 

1998

Annapurna, south face attempt, Sherpa was killed near the base of the face

Aconcagua, ascent 

1999

Decolage ED+, 6a A4, 750m, north face of Grandes Jorasses, new route (variation?), solo in winter (but outside the official winter season), on the final push he spent six days on the wall alone, often in bad weather and without means of communication, used portaledge and 70m rope, terminated ascent some 250m below summit of Pt. Croz   [High 204]  

Sea of Dreams, El Capitan, first French ascent

2000

Difficult dry-tooling routes in Canada

Manaslu, Northeast Face, first solo ascent

2001

Voie Lafaille A5 M7, 1100m, 21 pitches, west face of Petit Dru, new route, solo, claimed “the hardest route in the Alps”, spent a total of nine days on the wall,

I have never made a harder or more beautiful route in the Alps.

K2, South South East Spur, with Hans Kammerlander, originally Lafaille had extremely ambitious plans to solo a new route on the south face but was stopped by bad conditions [High 234]

2002

Annapurna I traverse (East Ridge) 15km of climbing above 7500m, technical drytooling at 7900m, four days of climbing, three bivouacs, with Albertro Inurrategi, the best climb of the season in the Himalaya


Annapurna was a very bad experience for me, two times accident, to share the summit on the radio with Katia, my wife, was very special, a big part of the pleasure.


2003

HAT TRICK OF 8000 PEAKS IN LESS THAN TWO MONTHS


- Dhaulagiri, solo ascent, reached summit on May 20
- Nanga Parbat, new route on the Diamir Face,  reached summit on June 22, with Ed Ed Viesturs
- Broad Peak, reached summit on July 15, on the descent he contracted pulmonary edema

2004

Makalu II 7,678m, new route and first ascent from Tibet, difficult mard mixed an dry-tooling (about M5/M6, 80o) above 7,400m, failed to continue up the Normal Route to the top of Makalu because of chest infection 

Shishapangma main summit, southwest face, solo in December with new variation

 

Un Autre Monde ED3 6c/7a A3, 900m, Grand Pilier d’Angle + L’Ecume des Jours ED2, Freney Pillar, new routes.  Awarded with the Cristal d’Or by the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade for the most significant ascent of the year.
Divine Providence ED, 7c A2, 900m, Grand Pilier d’Angle, first solo ascent
Privilége du Serpent 7c+, Céüse, France, free solo ascent
 
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All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2007 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited