1992
Le Chemin des Etioles ED3, 1000m, Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Croz), new route in winter, half the pitches involved aid and on these there were several sections of A3.
Weekend in Transilvania 6b, 200m, Trident du Tacul, southeast face, winter solo in 3 hours
Directe des Capucins ED2, 6c, 450 m, Grand Capucin, first solo winter ascent [High 122]
Annapurna South Face, attempt, new line between the 1970 British route and the 1981 Japanese route, reached c7500m, with Pierre Beghin, which was killed when an anchor pulled during the retreat, extremely difficult descent alone
I thought about Doug Scott and Joe Simpson and figured those guys gave all they had, and then gave even more… I should at least do the same
1993
Cho-Oyu 8201 m, Normal Route, Jean-Christophe’s first 8,000er
1994
Zenyatta Mondatta (El Capitan, Yosemite), first French ascent
Shisha Pangma Expedition
- on October 7 climbed Normal Route to the Central Summit
- on October 9 climbed new route on the the right side of the north face joining the 1987 Polish Route (Kukuczka – Hazjer), ascended the Western Summit (7950)
Awarded once again with the Cristal d’Or by the F.F.M.E for the most significant ascent of the year.
1995
SOLO ENCHAINMENT OF TEN ALPINE CLASICS IN 16 DAYS
Lafaille linked 10 classic alpine faces, climbing solo and moving between each on ski or foot (20 000meters of elevation gain and 180km of ski travel, using no helicopters or automobiles for transport). Received the Super Borne I.G.N. de l’Aventure award for this enterprise.
Chronology of Lafaille’s odyssey:
April 4: Lauper Route TD+, 1500 m, Northeast Face of the Eiger, 6 hours 30 min + North Face TD mixed, 750m, Mönch, 3 hours 30 min
April 5: travel
April 6: New Route, North Face of Aletschorn, 2 hours 15 min
April 7: Slovene Route TD/TD+, 900m, north face of Nesthorn, new finish added, 4 hours
April 8-9: travel between Blatten Saas Blatten and Zamboni Hutte
April 10: Marineli Couloir D+, 45-55o, 2300m, east face of Monte Rosa, 5 hours 30 minutes
April 11: asend to Hornli Hut at the base of North Face of the Matterhorn
April 12: Schmid Route EDI, 1000m, North Face of Matterhorn, 17 hours
April 13: Rest at Hornli Hut
April 14: New Route, 1000m, north face of Breithorn, 2 hours 45 minutes
April 15: approach to foot of north face of Dent d’Herens but seracs are too menacing, head for La Cabane des Dix
April 16: North Face TD-/TD, 650m, north face of Mont Blanc de Cheillon,
April 17: travel
April 18: North Couloir AD+, 800m, north face of Col de l’Aiguille Verte, 2 hours 30 minutes
April 19: The Shroud TD+, 750m, north face of Grandes Jorasses, 2 hours
Annapurna I, Bonington Route, attempt to make the first truly solo of the mountain, reached 7600m
1996
Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II Echchainment, ascents of both peaks were made in one continuous push, without descending to the Base Camp, on July 28 he soloed Gasherbrum II by the standard route in the very short time of 11 hours 20 minutes. After the rest in his tent at 5900m on July 31, he climbed Gasherbrum II. Ascents were made totally alpine style with no help from anyone else.
6250m peak, first ascent solo of an unclimbed peak which he called "Mari Ri" after his daughter Marie
1997
Lhotse, Western Summit, ascent
1998
Annapurna, south face attempt, Sherpa was killed near the base of the face
Aconcagua, ascent
1999
Decolage ED+, 6a A4, 750m, north face of Grandes Jorasses, new route (variation?), solo in winter (but outside the official winter season), on the final push he spent six days on the wall alone, often in bad weather and without means of communication, used portaledge and 70m rope, terminated ascent some 250m below summit of Pt. Croz [High 204]
Sea of Dreams, El Capitan, first French ascent
2000
Difficult dry-tooling routes in Canada
Manaslu, Northeast Face, first solo ascent
2001
Voie Lafaille A5 M7, 1100m, 21 pitches, west face of Petit Dru, new route, solo, claimed “the hardest route in the Alps”, spent a total of nine days on the wall,
I have never made a harder or more beautiful route in the Alps.
K2, South South East Spur, with Hans Kammerlander, originally Lafaille had extremely ambitious plans to solo a new route on the south face but was stopped by bad conditions [High 234]
2002
Annapurna I traverse (East Ridge) 15km of climbing above 7500m, technical drytooling at 7900m, four days of climbing, three bivouacs, with Albertro Inurrategi, the best climb of the season in the Himalaya
Annapurna was a very bad experience for me, two times accident, to share the summit on the radio with Katia, my wife, was very special, a big part of the pleasure.
2003
HAT TRICK OF 8000 PEAKS IN LESS THAN TWO MONTHS
- Dhaulagiri, solo ascent, reached summit on May 20
- Nanga Parbat, new route on the Diamir Face, reached summit on June 22, with Ed Ed Viesturs
- Broad Peak, reached summit on July 15, on the descent he contracted pulmonary edema
2004
Makalu II 7,678m, new route and first ascent from Tibet, difficult mard mixed an dry-tooling (about M5/M6, 80o) above 7,400m, failed to continue up the Normal Route to the top of Makalu because of chest infection
Shishapangma main summit, southwest face, solo in December with new variation