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 Another free ascents of Bravo les Filles
Harald Berger from Austria and Ondra Bene¹ from Czech Republic have made respectively the second and third all free ascents of Bravo les Filles on the East Face of Avaratra in the Tsaranoro Group (Madagascar). |
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Todd Skinner 1958-2006
Todd Skinner, one of the great American free-climbing and sport climbing pioneers, has died on Leaning Tower in Yosemite. In the early 80’s he was one of the first American climbers to break with trad style and use European-born sport climbing tactics to create free climbs. |
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New routes in the Miyar Valley
The Miyar Valley, located in the Indian part of the Great Himalaya,
stretches for over 100km (c. 62 miles), from Udaipur to the Khang La
mountain pass. The locals, the Tharanga people, are mainly shepherds
and farmers. They gladly help rare expeditions visiting the place and
so did not hesitate to help also our second Polish expedition (Micha³
Król and Przemek Wójcik) to the valley. |
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Swiss on Trango Tower
Swiss climbers, Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici and Christophe Steck with a photographer, Evrard Wendenbaum, attempted to make the first free ascent of Gran Diedre Desplomado on Pakistan's Trango Tower (6239m). |
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Slovenian Trango Towers 2006 Expedition
n the second half of August 2006 a Slovenian group of 9 climbers visited the Trango area. The group consisted of four teams: girls party: Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmov¹ek and Aleksandra Voglar, “veterans”: Silvo Karo and Andrej Grmov¹ek and “youngsters”: Matja¾ Jean and Matev¾ Kun¹iè, brothers Nejc and Ale¹ Èesen. |
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New route on Alberta’s North Face
No one ascends or attempts Mount Alberta expecting superlative climbing. Present-day climbers are well aware that the approach is arduous, the weather foul, and the rock dangerously loose. Yet, like the north face of the Eiger, Mount Alberta continues to attract ambitious mountaineers who regard the challenge of a difficult route simply too great to resist. |
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Claudio Caffè: first 8c/+ for Jenny Lavarda
On the 8th of September, Jenny Lavarda (Italy) managed to send Claudio Caffè, 8c, at the crag of Terra Promessa (Arco - Italy). Claudio Caffè is a 32m long overhanging route bolted by François Legrand. |
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Another Huber's free-solo
Alex Huber free-soloed South Face on Dent Du Géant (4013m). This 160m classic with 7 pitches of not always very solid granite has the maximum difficulties of VII+. Alex had climbed the route two times before the final attempt. |
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Ociepka sends 8c
Kinga Ociepka has joined the still exclusive club of “8c women” by redpointing Geminis 8c at Rodellar, Spain. The 20-year old Polish girl needed about seven days of work to clip the chain after having led the line successfully. Geminis is a real endurance battle. |
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Jasper redpoints another route on Eiger
The most prestigious North Face in the Alps has seen another free ascent by well-known Robert Jasper. The German made the first redpoint ascent of Yeti, a route which is situated on the right side of the Eiger. |
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Fischhuber repeats Unendliche Geschichte and Mordor
Austrian Kilian Fischhuber made the third ascent of Chris Sharma’s testpiece Unendliche Geschichte (Neverending Story) in Magic Wood/Switzerland. The boulder problem was first climbed by the American in 2003. |
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