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 New Speed Record on Eiger
Swiss Ueli Steck set up a new solo speed record on Eiger North face with 3 hours 41 minutes (47 minutes less than the last record by Christoph Heinz).
We include to the news the review of the most important points in the history of solo climbing on 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. |
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Golazo Finally Repeated
Russian-Ukrainian team has made the second ascent of Golazo (5.10 A4+, 1200 m, 25 pitches), the 1999 Steve Schneider’s route on the east face of Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia. |
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GLADIATORS AND CLOWNS D'OR -
Trading (virtual) sex with Miss Fame?
Several people criticized me for participating in the Piolet d’Or ceremony this year. None of them were in Grenoble. Joining this circus gave me the opportunity to present my opinion about the award
publicly. |
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Harrington Joins 8c Women Club
On January 27 Emily Harrington repeated Burning Down the House 5.14b (8c) at Jailhouse (Senora, California).
I was very excited when I did Burning Down the House, it was one of the best climbing days I've ever had!!!-says Emily in special comment for climbandmore.com. |
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16th Piolet d’Or goes to Slovenian Team
The first ascent of Chomolhari (7350m), an impressing, pyramid mountain on the Tibet Bhutan border by Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Boris Lorenčič was announced the best alpine climb of the year 2006 winning the 16th Piolet d’Or. |
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Iker Pou on Begi Puntuam 9a
Iker Pou made the second ascent of Begi Puntuan 9a, a new route in Etxauri, Navarra, a province in northern Spain. The Bask climber describes the route as "outstanding" and grades it as "light" 9a. |
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New hard route in Mišja Peč
Matej Sova has added the new 45-meter long route Ekstaza 8c+/9a to the famous crag of Mišja Peč in Osp (Slovenia). The new line is an extension of the route Človek ne jezi se, a hard and technical 8c route which ends in the middle of the face of Mišja Peč. |
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16th Piolet d’Or Nominees Announced
Five climbing teams have been nominated for the 16th Piolet d’Or, known as well as "The Golden Axe", a prestigious award for the "best" mountaineering ascent of the year. The winner will be announced in Grenoble, France, in late January.
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Chomolhari 2006
In general it was a serious climbing where logistics and choices of the tactics were probably more important than just "difficult moves of the body". I led the entire climb and we graded the route ED2, M6+/30-70, c1950 m - Marko Prezelj |
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Second free ascent of Southern Belle in 18 years
The infamous Southern Belle V 5.12d on the Half Dome’s South Face in Yosemite Valley has been repeated by Leo Houlding and Dean Potter.
Read the news and learn some facts about the history of the route that you won't find anywhere else in the Net. |
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New route on Cho Oyu, solo in a single push
Pavle Kozjek climbed a new route on the south-west face of Cho Oyu (8201 m) in the Tibetan Himalaya, climbing the route solo in single push from Advanced Base Camp at 6200 meters on the Gyabrag Glacier directly to the summit in 14.5 hours. |
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Another free ascents of Bravo les Filles
Harald Berger from Austria and Ondra Beneš from Czech Republic have made respectively the second and third all free ascents of Bravo les Filles on the East Face of Avaratra in the Tsaranoro Group (Madagascar). |
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Todd Skinner 1958-2006
Todd Skinner, one of the great American free-climbing and sport climbing pioneers, has died on Leaning Tower in Yosemite. In the early 80’s he was one of the first American climbers to break with trad style and use European-born sport climbing tactics to create free climbs. |
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