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 New 8c+ Route in Slovenia
In the crag of Bohinjska Bela, Slovenia, Slovenian climber Matej Sova equipped a project back in 1999 but due to the often wet hold on the crucial part of the route he didn't manage to climb it. |
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New Dolomites route in “modern old style”
When climbing in Tofana di Rozes early this summer I inspected huge overhangs and roofs on the right side of Pilastro di Rozes. There were no routes crossing those overhangs. The idea was born... |
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New hard free routes in the Alps and the Tatra Mountains
On the last weekend of August Dušan „Stoupa“ Janák successfully freeclimbed the route Voie Petit on Grand Capucin (3838 m). On September Janák climbed another hard route Jet Stream on the south-east face of Jastrabia veža in the Slovakian High Tatras. |
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New hard route in Mišja Peč
Matej Sova has added the new 45-meter long route Ekstaza 8c+/9a to the famous crag of Mišja Peč in Osp (Slovenia). The new line is an extension of the route Človek ne jezi se, a hard and technical 8c route which ends in the middle of the face of Mišja Peč. |
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New Hard Route in Zion!
The team of Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem established another hard free route in Zion National Park this February. |
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New route on Alberta’s North Face
No one ascends or attempts Mount Alberta expecting superlative climbing. Present-day climbers are well aware that the approach is arduous, the weather foul, and the rock dangerously loose. Yet, like the north face of the Eiger, Mount Alberta continues to attract ambitious mountaineers who regard the challenge of a difficult route simply too great to resist. |
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New route on Cho Oyu, solo in a single push
Pavle Kozjek climbed a new route on the south-west face of Cho Oyu (8201 m) in the Tibetan Himalaya, climbing the route solo in single push from Advanced Base Camp at 6200 meters on the Gyabrag Glacier directly to the summit in 14.5 hours. |
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New Route on Eiger
With this first freeclimb on August 30, 2008 of the most difficult sportsclimbing route in the Eiger Northface, named „Paciencia“, the year of the Eiger-Anniversary comes to a worthy end. Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist finish a long lasting project. |
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New routes in the Miyar Valley
The Miyar Valley, located in the Indian part of the Great Himalaya,
stretches for over 100km (c. 62 miles), from Udaipur to the Khang La
mountain pass. The locals, the Tharanga people, are mainly shepherds
and farmers. They gladly help rare expeditions visiting the place and
so did not hesitate to help also our second Polish expedition (Michał
Król and Przemek Wójcik) to the valley. |
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New Speed Record on Eiger
Swiss Ueli Steck set up a new solo speed record on Eiger North face with 3 hours 41 minutes (47 minutes less than the last record by Christoph Heinz).
We include to the news the review of the most important points in the history of solo climbing on 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. |
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Nominees for ARCO ROCK LEGENDS 2007 revealed!
On Friday, 7 September the eyes of everyone interested in climbing will be pointed towards a small Italian village, Arco, where all the greatest stars of the climbing world will gather for the second Arco Rock Legends event. |
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Ociepka sends 8c
Kinga Ociepka has joined the still exclusive club of “8c women” by redpointing Geminis 8c at Rodellar, Spain. The 20-year old Polish girl needed about seven days of work to clip the chain after having led the line successfully. Geminis is a real endurance battle. |
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