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 Ines Papert on Flying Circus
"I had Flying Circus in mind since 2005. Unfortunately the ice did not fully come down over the overhang. I decided to wait for the perfect conditions, so I had a chance of onsighting the route. Also, since I dropped out of competition circle it is much easier to be in the right place in the right time." |
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Josune Bereziartu - Part I
It’s normal that when a woman climbs a route, some climbers lose respect for that route. They think: if a woman can climb that route, why not me? Maybe it’s not so hard? Maybe I can do it, too. That way of thinking is deep-rooted in our society, not only in the climbing community. |
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Lee Cossey on El Cap Climbs
"Freerider is the perfect first free route on El Cap. Each of the 35 pitches is beautiful and there are so many different styles of climbing on the route from technical slabs to boulder problems, pumpy corners and, of course, wide cracks! This route is within the abilities of many climbers and I was surprised that there were not more people out there." |
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Marko Prezelj Interview - Part 1
In the eighties climbing was very well organized in Slovenia. If you wanted to take part in an expedition organized by our association you had to prove yourself, show your skills in the mountains. It was not like making promotion in the media like it’s now. Now you can fake it, then you couldn’t. There was no cyberworld, so your staff was good or not. |
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Martina Èufar
I will always remember the moment I came from behind a corner and saw the wall for the first time. "WAW!!" A really amazing gorge with overhanging, colourful walls. But when climbing I didn't feel the overhanging so much. It was great to hang on belays with nothing but the air beneath! |
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Martina Èufar about Vizija 8c
It is a great line on the central part of Misja Peè which has a great name. The name of the route is very important to me, and Vizija somehow sounds optimistic for my future climbing. I am joking a bit now, but how the title in a magazine “Martina's Total Eclipse” (it's a name of another 8c I tried) would sound like? Martina's Vision is much better, isn't it? |
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Robert Jasper on Yeti
The Eiger North Face is a very important part of my private climbing history. For me it´s the best and the biggest face in the Alps, and with very dramatic history. |
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Second ascent of Lowe's Route on Trapecio
Andean mountains are ideal for fast lightweight ascents which I like most; you can climb something good in 3 weeks and that goes well with my regular job. and I like the way of life down there: I've got many friends in Peru and I feel there almost like at home. |
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Steph Davis on Freerider
I like to switch my focus. For me, that is the most interesting thing in climbing, never staying in one category. Having made this achievement in the Valley, my thoughts are turning towards other goals again.
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Tomá¹ Mrázek and Helena Lipenska
When I was starting climbing, everybody kept telling me that I could make myself "someone" in this sport only by training in France with the French. But I knew what I wanted, and I promised myself that I would be the best. |
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Ueli Steck on His Alpine Solos and a New Route on GII
For me soloing light and fast makes sense. There are big faces where soloist can be faster than a team. So the situations when you can be more effective than a party of two people are what I am really interested in. Climbing such routes as 'Bonatti' on Matterhorn makes more sense. I am sure you can solo this route totally safe in one day. This is just a step further… |
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Ueli Steck on the Eiger Record Climb
If a route is faster to climb solo then you have to climb it solo. If you try the Nose, is it definitely faster in a team. For me personally a team record does not count at all. It's just the fastest time that counts… |
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