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Alex Huber on Pan Aroma
The nature of the rock is something unique. As soon as you start changing it, it's shit. My understanding of climbing is to see a natural obstacle, just take on the challenge and climb it. If you fail to do it - try again, try to get better or leave it for others |
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Andreas Bindhammer about St. Anger
During Easter Andreas Bindhammer put up a new route in Arco, Italy. He called the route St. Anger and graded it 8c+/9a. In the interview he is talking about his latest accomplishment, the preparations for it and the next goals for 2008. |
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Andreas Bindhammer on La Rambla La Rambla is visually attractive and athletic challenge. On May 2, 2007 Andreas Bindhammer managed the 4th ascent of the route, the day after he climbed Broadway 8c+/9a (formerly 9a) after 3 attempts. Andreas Bindhammer tells us how he managed to climb one of the hardest routes in the world. |
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Andrej Grmovsek on free ascent of Camilotto-Pellesier on Cima Grande North walls contain many, many hard routes, once the hardest aid and today the hardest free routes of the Alps, and on those walls the history of rock wall climbing was written in the last century. So the Tre Cime are special, but they are also hard - a lot of loose and damp rock, cold temperatures. |
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Bernd Zangerl: Why Bouldering It’s the BEST. It’s about power, it’s about focus... You can force your body to the limit. You can try the hardest possible moves... And it’s the fun of bouldering, hanging around with people I like, travelling to areas I want to see, trying projects which I am interested in, drinking cappuccino and talking about the only important thing. |
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Dave Graham
It’s either a benchmark of a 9a route or an 8c+ route […] The question of grade now would be an interesting one, because if Action Direct is the first 8c+ done, then everything else in the world would change - everything. |
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David Lama I think you have to listen to your body! If anyone says: that´s the best endurance training - he´s wrong; it´s the best for him, and that doesn´t mean that´s the best for me! |
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David Lama on a Malaysian Trip We didn´t really know what to expect from this trip. In the end we found a paradise for every climber. There are so many incredible rocks that you can’t climb them in your whole life! It was really unbelievable and we had to decide very well which of the walls we are gonna bolt and which we´ll leave for others, who will hopefully climb them soon. |
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Dodo Kopold on Assalam Alaikum Our aim was to climb the south face of Great Trango, a wall perfect for alpine climbing, but extremely dangerous in bad weather. If the weather gets worse and it starts snowing, it can be a problem to go back. We had known this very well before we started. |
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Du¹an “Stoupa” Janák Very often the hardest pitches are not these with the highest “number”. So our universal grade 9+AF is our little resistance to this mainstream. Of course, the competition is inevitable and I like “sport factor” in climbing. But I don´t want to be a “slave” of climbing modes and hunter for the “numbers”. OS or RP ascent of some route is only the last step but often not the hardest. |
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Eugeni Krivosheitsev about his mixed climbing adventure It is very difficult to keep a top position now, but I am still doing my best. I train, I practice yoga, I work on my physical condition all the time, and, what's most important, I still have fun doing what I do. I still have motivation to reach my goal, and I still feel like doing this.
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Fred Nicole on Amandla 8C, ROCKLANDS Luckily my sponsors support me for my way of life and not my performances. I would not feel respectful of my climbing or of my sponsors if I had to do things just for publicity! |
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Iker Pou: 7 Walls on 7 Continents In 2003, Iker and Eneko Pou, began their amazing quest „7 Walls, 7 Continents”. It is a challenge that no other mountain climber has taken before. The mission was to climb seven toughest routes up seven toughest walls on seven continents. The brothers completed the task last December. |
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Ines Papert About IWC 2006 "Now also female competitors have to climb very long and very overhanging routes, with swinging icicles and very hard technical sections [...] I am exited about good routes - that’s one of the main reasons for taking part in comps." |
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Ines Papert on Camilotto Pellesier Actually the fact that Rainer came with us turned out to be an additional motivation for me. He was on the top, crying: ‘Go, go, go!!!’ and my friend Wasti Schöndorfer was on the belay below, shouting: ‘Come on, come on, go, go!’ So there were two supporters and it really helped me. |
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